| Acetyl
Hexapeptide-3 |
| Acetyl
Hexapeptide-3 is used in formulas as a wrinkle preventative
as well as a wrinkle reducer as an alternative to injections.
|
| Acetyl
Hexapeptide-3 is a mimic of the N-terminal end of SNAP-25, one
of three proteins (known as the SNARE complex) that are essential
for neurotransmitter release at the synapsis, which is the chemical
signal for a muscle to contract. |
| As
a wrinkle reducer, studies have shown that Acetyl Hexapeptide-3
at a 10% concentration was able to significantly decrease the
depth of wrinkles after 30 days of treatment. The mechanism
by which Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 is able to accomplish this is
related to the ways in which Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 is able to
assist wrinkle prevention. |
| Acetyl
Hexapeptide-3 performs this activity in two distinct ways: |
| The
first way Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 acts as a wrinkle preventative
is by competing with SNAP-25 for a position in the SNARE complex.
This destabilizes the SNARE complex, preventing the vesicle
from releasing neurotransmitters efficiently, and therefore
attenuating muscle contraction. This causes a reduction in facial
muscle contraction, which is believed to help prevent the long-term
formation of lines and wrinkles. |
| The
second way that Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 acts as a wrinkle preventative
is by reducing the release of catecholamines (the overproduction
of which is known to induce the formation of wrinkles and fine
lines in the skin), specifically adrenaline and noradrenaline.
|
| Acetyl
Hexapeptide-3 is non-toxic and well tolerated by the skin |
|
Acetyl
Hexapeptide-3 reduces muscle contraction, helping to minimize
long-term formation of lines and wrinkles.
|
| Ascorbyl
Palmitate |
| Ascorbyl
Palmitate is a potent form of Vitamin C that is fat soluble
and therefore very bio-available to the skin’s cells. Vitamin
C supplies antioxidant and skin-refining benefits. It is firming,
anti-aging, and provides free-radical protection. |
| Biopeptide-CL |
| Like
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Biopeptide-CL is a synthetic protein
that is a fragment of collagen combined with palmitic acid to
make it more lipophillic, to improve its stability and to enhance
its affinity towards human skin. As with Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3,
one could look at Biopeptide-CL as a man-made precursor to collagen.
|
| Biopeptide-CL
was developed through research to identify a substance that
would behave similarly to retinoic acid but without its drawbacks,
especially in regards to synthesizing collagen. |
| The
reported results are as follows: |
| In
vitro: |
- Increases
collagen production by the fibroblasts by as much as 350%.
- Increases
hyaluronic acid production by the fibroblasts by as much
as 146%.
|
| In
vivo: |
| The
following statistics were gathered using image analysis of volunteers
who used crèmes containing a 3% concentration of Biopeptide-CL
for 28 days. |
- Surface
roughness -- Reduced 17%
- Mean
depth of wrinkles -- Reduced 23%
- Depth
of main wrinkle -- Reduced 39%
- Skin
thickness -- Increased 4%
|
|
The
increase in skin thickness was considered especially notable
and contrasts with the 6% reduction of the skin thickness
that occurs after 10 years of aging. The study concludes to
state that Biopeptide-CL is a potent active cosmetic ingredient
without the adverse effects (including irritation, dehydration
or long-term toxicity and instability) characteristic of retinoids.
|
| Bearberry
Extract |
| Bearberry
Extract is an astringent extracted from the leaves of the Bearberry
plant. It assists with the exfoliation of the skin and has dramatic
skin-lightening effects. |
| Coralline
Officinalis |
| Coralline
Officinalis is from red algae. It evens out skin tone by visibly
reducing redness and blotchiness. Visibly reduces wrinkles and
fine lines. |
| Coneflower
Extract & Hydrocotyl Extract (Actifirmä) |
| Coneflower
Extract & Hydrocotyl Extract (Actifirmä) is a combination
of herbal extracts clinically proven to dramatically reduce
the appearance of wrinkles and greatly improve skin’s firmness. |
| Cocoa
Butter |
| Cocoa
Butter is extracted from the roasted seeds of the cocoa plant.
It softens, lubricates, and moisturizes the skin. |
| Chlorella
Vulgaris Extract |
| Chlorella
Vulgaris Extract is from green algae. It restructures scarred
and aging tissue, reducing wrinkles and stretch marks. Studies
show it stimulates collagen and elastin production, helping
to maintain skin’s firmness. It is a potent moisturizer
that also neutralizes the effects of certain environmental pollutants
on skin tissue. |
| Dipotassium
Glycyrrhizinate |
| Dipotassium
Glycyrrhizinate (Licorice Root Extract) is a potent calming
agent from licorice that has powerful anti-inflammatory abilities.
It helps to improve skin tone and visibly reduce the appearance
of skin discoloration. |
| Emblica |
| Emblica
is the trade name for a tannin-rich extract from the herb Phyllanthus
emblica. This herb has been used for thousands of years in India
and is a cornerstone within the traditional healing system of
Ayurveda. |
| As
a skincare ingredient Emblica has been shown to have great multifunctionality.
Though its primary applications within the skincare industry
are as a photoprotective agent and a skin lightener, Emblica
offers a host of benefits for the skin. |
| Studies
have shown Emblica to possess powerful, broad-spectrum antioxidant
properties. In addition, Emblica is extremely stable and is
not subject to photodegradation. While vitamins C, and E, and
antioxidants from pine bark and rosemary lose over 50% of their
antioxidant activity in an aqueous solution after only three
months, Emblica remains stable for over a year. Research has
shown Emblica to increase skin hydration and skin lipids, to
reduce collagenase activity, to reduce UV-induced erythema,
to reduce inflammation and to help preserve skin tone and integrity. |
| One
of Emblica’s most exciting applications is as a skin lightener.
While most skin lighteners such as Hydroquinone, Arbutin, and
Kojic Acid have toxicity issues or can cause negative reactions
on the skin, Emblica is well tolerated with no side effects.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate has been the best-tolerated skin
lightener up to this point, however Emblica is more stable and
does not generate pro-oxidant activity. |
| Skin
lightening agents are used to either lighten or depigment the
skin. Skin lighteners are generally used in Europe and the United
States to treat age spots and freckles whereas the Asian market
uses them to change or modify skin color. Excessive pigmentation
of the skin can be caused by UV-radiation, hormonal imbalance,
inflammation, drugs or aging. A number of studies have demonstrated
Emblica’s ability to lighten and even-tone normal, hyper-pigmented
and UV-induced pigmented skin color. In two studies Emblica
showed comparable results to an equal concentration of Hydroquinone
for skin lightening with Hispanic and Asian skin over a nine-week
period. Another study showed Emblica to provide significant
lightening of freckle spots after 8 weeks. |
| Though
there has not been a specific study of Emblica’s potential
to normalize the uneven skin tone caused by stretch marks, its
ability to lighten both normal and hyper-pigmented skin is perhaps
an indication that Emblica could also play a role in helping
to normalize the appearance of stretch-marked skin. |
| As
mentioned above, Emblica also possesses exciting photoprotective
properties. Of particular importance is Emblica’s ability
to reduce collagenase activity (a protein that attacks the dermis),
which is increased by UV light. Collagenase is one of the key
factors in aging of the skin. |
| Another
extremely important feature of Emblica is that it can chelate
iron and copper. |
| While
iron and copper are necessary for many biological activities,
their toxicity threatens cellular integrity. Emblica seems a
particularly good ingredient to add to sun protection products,
as it is clear that UV radiation causes the release of iron
in skin firbroblasts and that sun-damaged skin contains significantly
higher levels of iron. |
| While
antioxidants are the chief defense against free radical damage,
vitamins C and E as well as glutathione all function as pro-oxidants
when in the presence of iron and copper, causing additional
oxidative stress. Emblica may play an increasing role in UV
protective products because it can help reduce oxidative stress
by scavenging free radicals while simultaneously chelating iron
and copper, stopping their harmful effects. |
| Emblica
is extremely well tolerated with no adverse side effects. |
| Glucosamine
HCL & Algae Extract & Yeast Extract & Urea |
| Glucosamine
HCL & Algae Extract & Yeast Extract & Urea is an
acid-free combination that increases skin cell renewal. It increases
collagen synthesis, contributing to skin firming. It evens skin
tone by visibly minimizing the appearance of minor scaring,
discoloration and age-related fine lines. A polysaccharide found
in the algae calms irritation and promotes healing. It visibly
reduces inflammation and redness of sensitive or irritated skin. |
| Glycine
Soja Sterols |
| Glycine
Soja Sterols (Soybean Extracts) are skin conditioning emollients
that moisturize, balance, increase elasticity, and firm the
skin. These extracts are also instrumental in keeping skin soft
and flexible. |
| Linoleic
Acid |
| Linoleic
Acid is an essential fatty acid that is absolutely necessary
for healthy skin. It possesses natural anti-inflammatory and
skin rejuvenating properties and can actually re-activate certain
cells after sun or age related damage. |
| Lavender
Oil |
| Essential
Oil of Lavender has a soothing and calming effect on skin. |
| Imperata
Cylindrica Root Extract |
| Imperata
Cylindrica Root Extract optimizes and reinforces collagen synthesis
and moisture absorption in the skin. |
| Hydrolyzed
Vegetable Protein |
| Hydrolyzed
Vegetable Protein is a plant protein complex enriched in hydroxyproline.
It mimics the composition of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor)
and is highly recommended for deep hydration and skin protection. |
| Mango
Butter |
| Mango
Butter is obtained from de-shelled fruit kernels of the mango
tree. It has emollient properties, wound healing, and regenerative
activity. |
| MSM
(Methylsulfonylmethane) |
| MSM
(Methylsulfonylmethane) is an organic source of biological sulfur.
It is a mineral that has numerous benefits for the skin. It
has soothing and calming effects, it builds collagen, and it
nourishes and clarifies skin types of all kinds. Many people
have reported a decrease in the appearance of stretch marks
and scars from applying a cream rich in MSM. |
| Peppermint
Oil |
| Peppermint
Oil is stimulating and refreshing. |
| Phospholipid
|
| Phospholipid
(Lecithin & Vitamin F) is a complex fatty material found
in all living cells that acts as an emollient, antioxidant,
and natural emulsifier. |
| Palmitoyl
Pentapeptide-3 |
| Palmitoyl
Pentapeptide-3 is a synthetic protein that is a fragment of
the C-terminal portion of collagen I (the most common type of
the nineteen forms of collagen) combined with palmitic acid
to make it more lipophillic, to improve its stability and to
enhance its affinity towards human skin. One could look at Palmitoyl
Pentapeptide-3 as a man-made precursor to collagen I. When this
protein is added to cultured human fibroblasts it enhances the
synthesis of collagen I, collagen III and fibronectin. |
| The
research behind Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 was begun to find specific
solutions to address aging factors in the skin, particularly
the thinning of the sinusoidal layer between the dermis and
the epidermis. The goal was to find a short peptide that would
stimulate fibroblasts in the skin to produce key components
of the extra-cellular matrix such as collagen and hyaluronic
acid. The reasons for this follow. |
| As
we age, the skin gets thinner. Part of this process is that
the sinusoidal dermo-epidermal interface layer between the dermis
and the epidermis gets flatter. It is this layer that allows
nutrients to flow from the dermis to the epidermis. As we age
this layer gets flatter and this reduces the area of exchange
interface between the dermis and the epidermis. This can significantly
affect the quality of the epidermis. The loss of adhesion between
these two structures, which is normally provided by collagen
IV and collagen VII, results in nutritional exchange deficiencies
and a slowing of biological processes in the skin. |
| Collagen
is the main constituent of the skin’s extra-cellular matrix.
In fact, collagen as a whole makes up approximately 25% of all
protein found in the human body. In young skin, the collagen
fibers are held in place by orderly bonds, to form a sort of
net. The “holes” of this net are filled by proteoglycans
and glycosaminoglycans forming the glycan network. The glycan
network is a water-saturated gel in which water-soluble molecules
and ions are able to circulate. It is this water that gives
skin its visco-elasticity and its turgidity. A key molecule
in this process is hyaluronic acid, as it can hold up to 1000
times its weight in water. A reduction in the quantity of interstitial
glycans (including hyaluronic acid) leads to a loss of water
retention and the glycan network collapses onto itself. With
age, this gel tends to sag, hindering cell migration and mitosis.
As the number of fibroblasts, mastocytes and blood vessels falls,
the dermis atrophies. |
| Studies
were carried out to see if Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 would affect
the sinusoidal dermo-epidermal interface layer and if it would
help to stimulate factors making up the glycan network. As mentioned
above, collagen IV and collagen VII are the primary constituents
of the sinusoidal dermo-epidermal interface layer between the
dermis and the epidermis that allows nutrients to flow from
the dermis to the epidermis. In vitro, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3
was found to stimulate collagen IV synthesis by 100-327% and
to stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesis by 267%. In vivo Palmitoyl
Pentapeptide-3 was found to stimulate collagen synthesis by
30-117%. The next step was to use image analysis to determine
the affect Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 had on wrinkled skin. The
six-month results are listed below, though significant results
were seen in two months. |
| Results: |
- Mean
wrinkle depth -- Reduced 17%
- Surface
area – deep wrinkles -- Reduced 68%
- Surface
area – moderate wrinkles -- Reduced 51%
- Mean
density of wrinkled area -- Reduced 47%
- Skin
roughness -- Reduced 16%
- Main
wrinkle volume -- Reduced 24%
|
| These
results show that Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 had a dramatic effect
on reducing the quantity and depth of wrinkles. It also improved
surface smoothness. The studies behind Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3
give a clear description of the mechanism for how this is accomplished
and also indicate that Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 is stimulating
natural biological processes to reverse the aging process of
the skin. In addition, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 is very well
tolerated by the skin. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 is a very exciting
ingredient and is becoming more and more popular as its results
are becoming more widely known. |
| Palmitoyl
Tetrapeptide-3 |
| Palmitoyl
Tetrapeptide-3 is a synthetic peptide that is a fragment of
immunoglobulin G that has been combined with palmitic acid to
make it more lipophillic and thus enhance its affinity towards
human skin. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 was discovered through
research to learn how to suppress the body’s production
of interleukins, particularly IL6, since these are the chemical
messengers that trigger the body’s acute inflammatory response. |
| Inflammation
is a function of immunity and is a protective response to injury
or destruction of tissue. This is the body’s way of walling
off the injurious agent and the injured tissue. Under normal
circumstances, very little IL6 is secreted and its secretion
is strictly controlled. However, as we age this regulation system
develops defects, and significant levels of IL6 appear in the
plasma even when there is no inflammatory stimulus. This results
in high levels of inflammatory proteins in the tissues and a
loss of healing potential. This process has been linked with
breast cancer, osteoporosis, anemia, autoimmunity and slower
tissue regeneration. |
| The
hormone DHEA is directly responsible for maintaining the regulation
of the production of IL6. This has even been demonstrated in
the skin: when DHEA is present in sufficient amounts it is converted
into a steroid hormone, androstenediol, which is directly responsible
for maintain IL6 production and for maintaining local homeostasis
of cytokine and interleukin production. As we age, DHEA is reduced
and this directly leads to cytokine deregulation and the over-production
of some interleukins and the under-production of others. As
mentioned above, IL6 production is increased with negative consequences.
Since UV radiation can increase IL6 production by five times,
this process can significantly impact the skin. |
| The
researchers’ goal thus became to find a peptide that would
mimic the effects of DHEA without DHEA’s potential for
being converted into estrogen, since estrogen is a hormone that
is not licensed for cosmetic purposes. Specifically they wanted
to find a peptide that would target IL6 and inhibit its production.
The results: |
| At
concentrations from 10 ppm, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 induces
a marked reduction in the secretion of the cytokine IL6. This
reduction is progressive and depends on the concentration of
the peptide: baseline secretion may be inhibited by up to 40%.
|
| Palmitoyl
Tetrapeptide-3 reduced levels of IL6 after cells were exposed
to UV radiation by up to 86% even though IL6 had been increased
by about 20 fold by the UV. |
|
These
results show that Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 is able to affect
baseline levels of IL6 as well as modulate the effects of
UV-stimulated over-production of IL6. IL6 is marketed by Sederma
as a molecule that can restore cytokine equilibrium, which
characterizes youthful skin. Ultra Aesthetics has chosen to
use Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3as a synergistic support ingredient
to create a more optimum environment for other active ingredients
to help restore youthful skin appearance.
|
| Retinyl
Palmitate |
| Retinyl
Palmitate (Vitamin A) helps diminish the appearance of fine
lines on the skin while leaving it soft, smooth, and supple.
It encourages cell renewal that enhances skin's youthful appearance. |
| Sesame
Oil |
| Sesame
Oil is nutritional oil that acts as a light emollient, helping
to nourish skin. |
| Shea
Butter |
| Shea
Butter is the natural fat obtained from the fruit of the karite
tree (also referred to as “the tree of life”). Shea
has emollient properties, wound healing, and regenerative activity. |
| Siegesbeckia
Orientalis Extract |
| Siegesbeckia
Orientalis Extract is obtained from the herb Siegesbeckia orientalis
L. This herb has been used for centuries externally to soothe
inflammation and stimulate wound healing, which it does through
tissue regeneration by way of collagen matrix build-up. |
| A
now expired patent by Pierre Fabre Medicaments describes its
ability to stimulate wound healing, to promote more regular
tissue renewal, to increase the normal appearance of scars and
to fully restore elasticity to damaged skin with collagen fibers
arranged in regular fashion. |
| Extracts
of Siegesbeckia orientalis have shown anti-inflammatory properties,
inhibition of collagenase and protection from UV induced erythema. |
| This
initial research led to an investigation of Siegesbeckia Orientalis
Extract ability to restructure stretch marks. Stretch marks
are caused by abnormal stretching of the dermis (pregnancy,
change in weight), from a linear scar or from some endocrine
disorders. In each case the stretch mark affects the elastin
fibers in the middle dermis, which are diminished or disappear.
Any effective treatment for stretch marks thus must restore
normal quantities of collagen and elastin fibers. |
| The
effects shown in a four-week clinical study where a crème
containing 1.5% of Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract was applied
by volunteers twice daily are listed below. |
| Results |
- Length
of Streaks -- Reduced 52.15%
- Surface
Smoothness -- Increased 13.7%
- Indented
Surfaces -- Reduced 55.4%
- Length
of Irregularities -- Reduced 52.2%
|
| These
results correspond to restructuring of the tissue. At the end
of treatment the surface of the skin was more regular in appearance
and the global profile was more uniform with stretch marks tending
to fade. These results show Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract
to possess exciting characteristics for the treatment of stretch
marks. In addition, Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract is shown
to possess excellent tolerance and non-toxicity. |
| Sweet
Almond Oil |
| Sweet
Almond Oil is cold pressed from the dried kernels of the almond
tree. It helps protect the surface of the skin, acts as an emollient,
skin soother and softener while conditioning the skin and promoting
clear, clean, young-looking skin. It also helps skin to absorb
moisture. |
| Tocopherol |
| Tocopherol
(Natural Vitamin E) is an antioxidant that has been cited as
having positive effects on the wound healing process. It penetrates
the skin, rejuvenating damaged skin cells and helps promote
healthy regeneration of scarred skin. |
| |
