| Palmitoyl
Tetrapeptide-3 is a synthetic peptide that is a fragment of
immunoglobulin G that has been combined with palmitic acid to
make it more lipophillic and thus enhance its affinity towards
human skin. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 was discovered through
research to learn how to suppress the body’s production
of interleukins, particularly IL6, since these are the chemical
messengers that trigger the body’s acute inflammatory response. |
| Inflammation
is a function of immunity and is a protective response to injury
or destruction of tissue. This is the body’s way of walling
off the injurious agent and the injured tissue. Under normal
circumstances, very little IL6 is secreted and its secretion
is strictly controlled. However, as we age this regulation system
develops defects, and significant levels of IL6 appear in the
plasma even when there is no inflammatory stimulus. This results
in high levels of inflammatory proteins in the tissues and a
loss of healing potential. This process has been linked with
breast cancer, osteoporosis, anemia, autoimmunity and slower
tissue regeneration. |
| The
hormone DHEA is directly responsible for maintaining the regulation
of the production of IL6. This has even been demonstrated in
the skin: when DHEA is present in sufficient amounts it is converted
into a steroid hormone, androstenediol, which is directly responsible
for maintain IL6 production and for maintaining local homeostasis
of cytokine and interleukin production. As we age, DHEA is reduced
and this directly leads to cytokine deregulation and the over-production
of some interleukins and the under-production of others. As
mentioned above, IL6 production is increased with negative consequences.
Since UV radiation can increase IL6 production by five times,
this process can significantly impact the skin. |
| The
researchers’ goal thus became to find a peptide that would
mimic the effects of DHEA without DHEA’s potential for
being converted into estrogen, since estrogen is a hormone that
is not licensed for cosmetic purposes. Specifically they wanted
to find a peptide that would target IL6 and inhibit its production.
The results: |
| At
concentrations from 10 ppm, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 induces
a marked reduction in the secretion of the cytokine IL6. This
reduction is progressive and depends on the concentration of
the peptide: baseline secretion may be inhibited by up to 40%.
|
| Palmitoyl
Tetrapeptide-3 reduced levels of IL6 after cells were exposed
to UV radiation by up to 86% even though IL6 had been increased
by about 20 fold by the UV. |
|
These
results show that Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 is able to affect
baseline levels of IL6 as well as modulate the effects of
UV-stimulated over-production of IL6. IL6 is marketed by Sederma
as a molecule that can restore cytokine equilibrium, which
characterizes youthful skin. Ultra Aesthetics has chosen to
use Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3as a synergistic support ingredient
to create a more optimum environment for other active ingredients
to help restore youthful skin appearance.
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