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Emblica
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| Emblica
is the trade name for a tannin-rich extract from the herb Phyllanthus
emblica. This herb has been used for thousands of years in India
and is a cornerstone within the traditional healing system of
Ayurveda. |
| As
a skincare ingredient Emblica has been shown to have great multifunctionality.
Though its primary applications within the skincare industry
are as a photoprotective agent and a skin lightener, Emblica
offers a host of benefits for the skin. |
| Studies
have shown Emblica to possess powerful, broad-spectrum antioxidant
properties. In addition, Emblica is extremely stable and is
not subject to photodegradation. While vitamins C, and E, and
antioxidants from pine bark and rosemary lose over 50% of their
antioxidant activity in an aqueous solution after only three
months, Emblica remains stable for over a year. Research has
shown Emblica to increase skin hydration and skin lipids, to
reduce collagenase activity, to reduce UV-induced erythema,
to reduce inflammation and to help preserve skin tone and integrity. |
| One
of Emblica’s most exciting applications is as a skin lightener.
While most skin lighteners such as Hydroquinone, Arbutin, and
Kojic Acid have toxicity issues or can cause negative reactions
on the skin, Emblica is well tolerated with no side effects.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate has been the best-tolerated skin
lightener up to this point, however Emblica is more stable and
does not generate pro-oxidant activity. |
| Skin
lightening agents are used to either lighten or depigment the
skin. Skin lighteners are generally used in Europe and the United
States to treat age spots and freckles whereas the Asian market
uses them to change or modify skin color. Excessive pigmentation
of the skin can be caused by UV-radiation, hormonal imbalance,
inflammation, drugs or aging. A number of studies have demonstrated
Emblica’s ability to lighten and even-tone normal, hyper-pigmented
and UV-induced pigmented skin color. In two studies Emblica
showed comparable results to an equal concentration of Hydroquinone
for skin lightening with Hispanic and Asian skin over a nine-week
period. Another study showed Emblica to provide significant
lightening of freckle spots after 8 weeks. |
| Though
there has not been a specific study of Emblica’s potential
to normalize the uneven skin tone caused by stretch marks, its
ability to lighten both normal and hyper-pigmented skin is perhaps
an indication that Emblica could also play a role in helping
to normalize the appearance of stretch-marked skin. |
| As
mentioned above, Emblica also possesses exciting photoprotective
properties. Of particular importance is Emblica’s ability
to reduce collagenase activity (a protein that attacks the dermis),
which is increased by UV light. Collagenase is one of the key
factors in aging of the skin. |
| Another
extremely important feature of Emblica is that it can chelate
iron and copper. |
| While
iron and copper are necessary for many biological activities,
their toxicity threatens cellular integrity. Emblica seems a
particularly good ingredient to add to sun protection products,
as it is clear that UV radiation causes the release of iron
in skin firbroblasts and that sun-damaged skin contains significantly
higher levels of iron. |
| While
antioxidants are the chief defense against free radical damage,
vitamins C and E as well as glutathione all function as pro-oxidants
when in the presence of iron and copper, causing additional
oxidative stress. Emblica may play an increasing role in UV
protective products because it can help reduce oxidative stress
by scavenging free radicals while simultaneously chelating iron
and copper, stopping their harmful effects. |
| Emblica
is extremely well tolerated with no adverse side effects. |
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