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Palmitoyl
Pentapeptide-3
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| Palmitoyl
Pentapeptide-3 is a synthetic protein that is a fragment of
the C-terminal portion of collagen I (the most common type of
the nineteen forms of collagen) combined with palmitic acid
to make it more lipophillic, to improve its stability and to
enhance its affinity towards human skin. One could look at Palmitoyl
Pentapeptide-3 as a man-made precursor to collagen I. When this
protein is added to cultured human fibroblasts it enhances the
synthesis of collagen I, collagen III and fibronectin. |
| The
research behind Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 was begun to find specific
solutions to address aging factors in the skin, particularly
the thinning of the sinusoidal layer between the dermis and
the epidermis. The goal was to find a short peptide that would
stimulate fibroblasts in the skin to produce key components
of the extra-cellular matrix such as collagen and hyaluronic
acid. The reasons for this follow. |
| As
we age, the skin gets thinner. Part of this process is that
the sinusoidal dermo-epidermal interface layer between the dermis
and the epidermis gets flatter. It is this layer that allows
nutrients to flow from the dermis to the epidermis. As we age
this layer gets flatter and this reduces the area of exchange
interface between the dermis and the epidermis. This can significantly
affect the quality of the epidermis. The loss of adhesion between
these two structures, which is normally provided by collagen
IV and collagen VII, results in nutritional exchange deficiencies
and a slowing of biological processes in the skin. |
| Collagen
is the main constituent of the skin’s extra-cellular matrix.
In fact, collagen as a whole makes up approximately 25% of all
protein found in the human body. In young skin, the collagen
fibers are held in place by orderly bonds, to form a sort of
net. The “holes” of this net are filled by proteoglycans
and glycosaminoglycans forming the glycan network. The glycan
network is a water-saturated gel in which water-soluble molecules
and ions are able to circulate. It is this water that gives
skin its visco-elasticity and its turgidity. A key molecule
in this process is hyaluronic acid, as it can hold up to 1000
times its weight in water. A reduction in the quantity of interstitial
glycans (including hyaluronic acid) leads to a loss of water
retention and the glycan network collapses onto itself. With
age, this gel tends to sag, hindering cell migration and mitosis.
As the number of fibroblasts, mastocytes and blood vessels falls,
the dermis atrophies. |
| Studies
were carried out to see if Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 would affect
the sinusoidal dermo-epidermal interface layer and if it would
help to stimulate factors making up the glycan network. As mentioned
above, collagen IV and collagen VII are the primary constituents
of the sinusoidal dermo-epidermal interface layer between the
dermis and the epidermis that allows nutrients to flow from
the dermis to the epidermis. In vitro, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3
was found to stimulate collagen IV synthesis by 100-327% and
to stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesis by 267%. In vivo Palmitoyl
Pentapeptide-3 was found to stimulate collagen synthesis by
30-117%. The next step was to use image analysis to determine
the affect Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 had on wrinkled skin. The
six-month results are listed below, though significant results
were seen in two months. |
Results
| Mean
wrinkle depth |
Reduced
17% |
| Surface
area – deep wrinkles |
Reduced
68% |
| Surface
area – moderate wrinkles |
Reduced
51% |
| Mean
density of wrinkled area |
Reduced
47% |
| Skin
roughness |
Reduced
16% |
| Main
wrinkle volume |
Reduced
24% |
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| These
results show that Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 had a dramatic effect
on reducing the quantity and depth of wrinkles. It also improved
surface smoothness. The studies behind Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3
give a clear description of the mechanism for how this is accomplished
and also indicate that Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 is stimulating
natural biological processes to reverse the aging process of
the skin. In addition, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 is very well
tolerated by the skin. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 is a very exciting
ingredient and is becoming more and more popular as its results
are becoming more widely known. |
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